4/23/2024 0 Comments Window install on t1 11 siding![]() ![]() ![]() Most of the installation instructions I've found online are for buildings with sheathing and then siding on top that can be taken off. Also, I plan to trim out the window with 1x4s, if that matters.Īm I missing something here? Is there a way to fasten the flange directly to the siding and flash it to keep water out? Or do I need to cut the siding back a few inches, flash and then cover the gap with trim?Īlso, how should I handle the sides and bottom? Can I just cover the nail flange with adhesive membrane, or maybe use a piece of flashing on the bottom to divert water to the outside of the siding and then hide it with 1x4 trim? If the windows are mounted on top of the T-111, you will need to remove the windows before proceeding. ![]() Seems like at the top of the opening I need to tuck a drip cap under the siding and over the flange and edge of the window to divert water out, which means I will need to cut the siding back and fasten the flange to the framing. I don't see how that can be done in a way that will keep water out. The guy I bought them from (a contractor) said I can just cut and frame my opening and nail or screw the flanges straight to the siding. I bought several used double-pane aluminum sliders with nailing flanges for super cheap (they had been removed from an apartment complex). The existing siding is T1-11 nailed to the studs (no OSB or anything underneath). I will need to install several new windows into spots where no windows were before, so I will have to cut and frame new openings. For this project, I am all about functional and cheap. Aluminum expands and contracts and I could imagine that movement eventually leading to a failure.I am turning a storage building out in the middle of nowhere into a rustic mountain cabin. I do wonder how the drip cap will stay in place. framing and cut window and door openings with a utility knife. Something I could do with my track saw and then clean up the ends of the cuts with an oscillating tool. Wrap and staple Type-1 tar paper or house wrap to 16 o.c. That's not an option for me.Īnother carpenter said I ought to go with option one above, and put a half-depth saw cut in the T1-11 above the head trim, and install a drip cap into the saw cut and over the head trim. One carpenter I spoke with about this was stumped, and said to just use a lot of caulking above the trim. I'd be relying on caulking and I just don't trust it. A good carpenter will install a drip cap across the top and rubberized/self adhesive window flashing at each corner of the window. This could be a very fussy operation - getting a precise cutout in the T1-11, and there would still be a weak spot at the top outside edges of that head trim. Dr Jim, standard installation for a window in T1-11 and sheathing is to anchor the windows brickmold or nailing flange directly to the sheathing. I'd screw the trim frame together using Kreg pocket screws. I'd use a thicker board for this trim so the head trim is installed against the framing, and so that a drip cap can be tucked under the the t1-11 at the top and over the head trim. My problem with this approach is that the trim installed over the T1-11 will trap water and stay wet (especially behind the head trim) and eventually cause problems.Īnother possibility is a variation on the above approach, but cutting the T1-11 opening to also include a cutout for the head trim. Easy to install with long-term durability. One possibility I considered is to buy windows that have a continuous nailing flange, install them against the framing, and then install the T1-11 with a window cutout over the window. Douglas Fir Siding Natural Wood 0.594-in x 48-in x 96-in T1-11 Panel Siding. Here's the dilemma: Because T1-11 is a sheathing and siding in one, I am stumped about how to put a drip cap above the doors and windows to prevent water infiltration. Our plans include 8 windows (divided-lite awning and fixed) and a couple of doors in the T1-11 faces, all with 1x4 trim. The garage will be painted red and have white trim - for a very barn-like look. It's more stable than the pine T1-11 found at big box stores here in Massachusetts. The product is 5/8" Douglas Fir, not OSB, from Roseburg. To avoid horizontal T1-11 seams on the eave sides, we're planning to use 10' high T1-11 sheets. Actually, we're putting cedar clapboard on the 28' gable-end side we'll see most. We just broke ground for a 28' x 44' garage/barn and plan to side it in T1-11. Hi there - new member and first post with a question that's been bugging me for quite a while. ![]()
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